Charming Cuba
Cuba is a very unique and beautiful country - it is a bit of an enigma due to its totalitarian regime and limited exposure to the outside world. Cuba has a complex, yet fascinating history which you must learn about to better understand the people and their culture. Go with an open mind to immerse yourself in the local way of life and explore the stunning landscapes this island nation has to offer. Here’s a rundown of our 2-week trip and some top tips if you're planning a visit (go, you won’t regret it)!
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Read up on Cuba’s history and the current political situation to help you experience the country fully
You must purchase a Tourist Card beforehand and bring this with you. Check your Government’s Official site for Cuba Travel advice which will direct you to legitimate websites to obtain the tourist card. As we’re from the UK we used Gov.uk for guidance.
English is not widely spoken, unless you can speak Spanish, Google Translate is your best friend
Ensure you have completed all the relevant travel forms before arrival and save them on your phone or print them out. The WIFI is very poor at the airport for downloading anything and nobody speaks English - they will not allow you through immigration until all the forms are complete
Everyday supplies such as toothpaste are limited and in demand for locals -make sure you bring the essentials with you. Buy any snacks you like when you see them, you might not find them again!
Carry a small torch as blackouts are frequent and don’t expect every item on the menu to be available, due to food shortages.
Don’t engage people who approach you on the street as they will ask for a tip at the end. Don’t accept any items such as hair accessories, flowers or pictures as you will be asked to pay for them once they are in your hand.
Avoid being scammed by the “cigar/salsa festival” where you might be tricked into buying fake cigars or paying for salsa lessons. Another common scam is being asked to buy baby formula for people.
Always negotiate a price in advance and have the right change when getting into a taxi
The rumours about WIFI are true, there is none! Even in Hotels, the signal is very weak. Buy a pre-paid wifi card by ETECSA from any of their stores. Bring your passport and be prepared to queue!
You can’t just Google places on the go - download offline Google Maps to help with navigation. Do your research beforehand so you don’t miss out on the best restaurants and bars.
The money situation is a bit complicated! The official currency is CUP, but most places accept USD - cards may not work everywhere. Take dollars with you and exchange them when you arrive - not at the airport!! Change your money with a trusted Hotel or Airbnb Owner, they will give you a good rate, just ask in advance.
Book all accommodation in advance, Airbnb worked really well and Hotels.com was good. Do some research about the area beforehand and try to connect with the accommodation owner about your stay - they are usually very helpful.
You can book excursions through Airbnb directly, it’s worth a look!
Avoid drinking tap water - check with the seller if ice is from filtered water if you are worried
Bring a reusable bottle (one that keeps water cool), and buy large 2-litre bottles to refill your own before your day trips to save on single-use plastic bottles
Wear shorts with zip pockets to keep your phones/wallets safe and don’t carry all your cards and cash around at one time
Do a free walking tour in each city to get your bearings and find out more about the history
Havana (2-3 days)
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We only spent a couple of days in Havana and will let you make up your mind about staying longer.
The city has an energetic and soulful vibe, but parts of it are run down and neglected, crumbling buildings are a regular sight. I would describe Havana as having a dilapidated charm.
Here are some of the highlights:
Visit Che Guevara’s House - hire a local driver to take you and give you a tour, there is a small entrance fee. It was interesting to learn more about his life and time living in Cuba fighting in the revolution.
Visit the Ambos Mundos Hotel where Ernest Hemingway lived for almost 7 years. You can look at the room that he stayed in whilst writing one of his famous books, ‘For Whom the Bell Tolls’. You will have to tip the guide who doesn’t do much other than open the door for you, but it is worth visiting the Hotel itself.
Do a free Old Town walking tour, this will give you an insight into local life and soak up the history of Cuba.
Visit the local market on the other side of town where you’ll find street food stalls, clothes and souvenirs.
Visit Plaza Vieja, a cobblestone square with art galleries and restaurants.
Visit the Museum of the Revolution to learn more about this integral part of Cuba’s history.
Other activities
Take a Classic Car tour, a fun way to experience the City.
If you’re interested in Ernest Hemingway and his life, you can travel about 25km outside of Havana to Finca la Vigia, the home where Hemingway lived for around 20 years.
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You never quite know what will be on the menu due to food shortages!
There are some great restaurants that serve a variety of sandwiches and Cuban food with good vibes, cocktails and views:
Yarini Habana: relaxed rooftop with some quirky cocktails!
La Guarida: a fancy rooftop restaurant serving traditional Cuban dishes in fine dining style - you must book in advance.
Paladar Doña Eutimia: a cosy and homely place to stop for lunch or dinner.
El Dandy: a great place to go for a sandwich in the Old Town.
El Del Frente: another bright and lively spot.
Visit one of the many Salsa bars for some live music to feel the heart of the City.
Visit the El Floridita Bar and have a cocktail or 2, a bar frequented by Ernest Hemingway.
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Accommodation
I’d recommend staying in the Old Town to enjoy the historic side of Havana.
We did a lot of googling and booked the Hotels directly online beforehand. The responses were sometimes slow but we enjoyed these locally owned Casa’s:
Casa Vitrales: this place had a historic charm about it, in a great location in the Old Town. The host was super friendly and helpful and arranged a taxi from the airport for us.
Madero bnb: this place had a more boutique feel, also in a good location in the Old Town.
Alternatively, AirBnb is a great option, not only affordable but also one of the ways you can support the Cuban people. Even though hosts need to pay most of their income from Airbnb to the government, it is still a way for them to earn an independent income.
Transport
The Old Town is walkable, other than this you can take local taxis. Uber does not exist! Ask your host about booking a taxi and take their details if you want to book future trips with them. Remember to agree the price beforehand and to haggle!
Viñales (2-3 days)
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From Havana, you can take a Colectivo (a local shared taxi, possibly an old classic car) to Vinales for around $30. This is around a 3-hour journey.
Viñales Valley’s UNESCO World Heritage Site title is well deserved- it has lush green tobacco plantations and stunning landscapes.
It’s a small, quaint town that is walkable. There are plenty of restaurants and bars on the main street, it’s a great place to sit and watch the world go by with a cocktail or coffee!
Viñales has an incredibly laid-back vibe - you can spend a few hours wandering the town, or take a little hike across the fields to soak up the views.
Day 1
Book a horseriding tour locally through your host at the accommodation - it’s a fantastic way to explore the valley with some breathtaking views. The tours usually stop at a tobacco farm where you can try cigars dipped in honey.
Ensure you ask for healthy horses as sadly, sometimes they don’t look after them very well.
Day 2
Again, through your host if you can, arrange a colectivo to take you to Cayo Jutias beach, about an hour’s drive away. Beware it is a bumpy ride on some unmade roads! They dropped us off and collected us at 4 pm which was perfect.
The beach is peaceful and unspoilt with white sand and clear blue water. It was a great place to relax and switch off. There was only one main restaurant and one shack selling lobster which was super fresh and cheap!
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The main street has plenty of restaurants and bars.
Mogote Cafe has a chilled vibe and is a lovely place to watch the sunset
3 J Bar Tapas has a range of options including pasta and pizza
Finca Agroecológica El Paraiso: experience locally grown organic food in a beautiful setting outside the main town. You’ll need to book in advance and the menu is pre-set according to what they have grown that week. You can walk there in the light, or take a taxi, don’t walk home as it is not well lit at all.
Taxis are hard to hail once you are there, so ask the restaurant to call you one or arrange for the same driver who took you to collect you.
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Accommodation
There are many Casa’s in Vinales, you can find plenty online, just check the reviews.
We really enjoyed our stay at Casa Lucilo y Nirma.
The host was super friendly, the rooms were clean and comfortable and the breakfast was very homely. They booked our excursions and taxis which was helpful.
Transport
You can walk pretty much everywhere. There are local taxis available but you will have to hail one on the street or ask your host to help you book one.
Trinidad (2-3 days)
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We booked another colectivo to take us to Trinidad, which was a long journey, so allow a day for travel, it was about 6 hours.
Trinidad is a colonial old town full of character with its cobblestone streets, art galleries and museums. It has a vibrant nightlife, and you can listen to live music and dance a bit of salsa in the main square.
Highlights:
Book a free walking tour to get your bearings and learn more about the history of the town.
Do another horse riding tour through the tobacco farms, which also takes you to a stunning waterfall where you can have a dip to cool off. We booked this tour through Airbnb directly. Again, just double check about the condition of the Horses to ensure they are being well cared for.
Take a local bus or taxi to Playa Ancon beach for a relaxing day away from the crowds.
Have a salsa lesson with a local teacher at Casa De La Musica.
In the evening, visit Casa De La Musica to enjoy live music with a cocktail in the open air.
If the night takes you, walk up to the Disco Ayala ‘La Cueva’ nightclub in a cave for an underground rave ‘til the early hours.
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There are lots of good restaurants in and around the town centre. Here are a couple of recommendations:
Los Conspiradores has a lovely atmosphere and great seafood
Munoz Tapas has a great rooftop and good small bites
Taberna La Botiga has good sharing plates and interesting decor which represents Cuba’s history of slavery. It’s worth a visit to see the wall hangings
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We stayed at Casa D’ La Popa. It was a quaint Casa in a central location and the hosts were super helpful.
There are loads of great Casas on AirBnb with local hosts, so I’d recommend checking this out to suit your budget and connect with the owner beforehand.
Varadero (3 days)
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Through our AirBnb host we booked a Colectivo to our final stop, Varadero. This journey is about 4 hours so make sure you have enough water and snacks!
Varadero is stunning and is a great place to visit for a bit of room r&r on the pure white sand beach with crystal clear, azure blue water.
Be warned, it feels very different to the rest of Cuba as it is set up for holidaymakers and full of large 4 and 5-star All-Inclusive Hotels.
We visited Varadero at the end of our trip and spent our time relaxing on the beach and by the pool at the Hotel.
The All-Inclusive element was a bit jarring following the food shortages and lovely local Casas we had experienced throughout the trip.
Being honest, we preferred the local accommodation and restaurants, but Varadero is so beautiful and worth visiting.
Trying to put a positive spin on the All Inclusives, you could say they support jobs in hospitality and increase the visitor economy, which hopefully entices people to explore other areas of Cuba.
After a few days here, we took another Colectivo back to Havana for a final night before heading back to blighty with a heavy heart after an incredible 2 weeks.
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We really enjoyed our stay at Melia Varadero. It had multiple pools, plenty of activities, and the beach was walking distance, which was absolutely perfect!
You could check out AirBnbs in Varadero for a cheaper, more authentic local stay or research the best All-Inclusives.